2-Channel Marine Amplifier Receiver - Waterproof and Weatherproof Audio Subwoofer for Boat Stereo Speaker & Other Watercraft - 400 Watt Power, Wired RCA, AUX and MP3 Audio Input Cable

Small but mighty. Used this underneath the fairing of a 2016 Harley SG. It is pushing the two fairing speakers and it is powerful. I can cruising down the highway at 75 mph, full face helmet on, visor down and hear the music clearly. It is compact and fits easily, about the size of a deck of cards. Add an inline high level converter to low levels and it connects with RCA cables. Also, might want to upgrade from the stock speakers or you will blow them.

Horrible item. Did not last a day. Save your money!

Added to golf cart for 6.5 speakers.Works perfect, alot of sound.

This is an amazing mini-amp that fits in the palm of my hand. The Amp has 2 sets of speaker output wires, each labeled with R or L and the polarity, and these 4 wires each has a waterproof quick-disconnect plug in the center. It has a 3 input wires: Red (Constant Power), Blue (Remote turn on signal), and Black (Ground). When the blue wire receives a 12v signal, it tells the Amp to turn itself on. It also has two RCA input jacks, which can support either low level (pre-amp) inputs, or by setting the internal push-switch it will accept high-level speaker inputs. There is a second internal push-switch for reversing the input polarity, and an internal gain control dial. All these internal items can be covered by a plastic cover that makes the amp waterproof. There is also a volume control wire, that has a 3.5" female connecter at the end, where you can optionally plug in the included Volume Control dial that has a 4 foot cable. Also included is a dual-RCA male to 3.5" female adapter on a 3 foot cable, a 3.5" male to 3.5" male 3 foot cable, a waterproof pouch for an cell phone or iPod which has a female 3.5" jack on the outside and male 3.5" jack on the inside with an adjustable blue neck-cord. All the plugs (with the exception of the pouch), have waterproof plugs attached to them so they can be sealed when nothing is plugged in.My goal was to use the Amp to run a pair of JBL 3.5" speakers in the dashboard of my car, which are rated at 25 watts RMS each. Previously I had been running those off my factory amp which shared them on the same channel as my door speakers, and I had recently upgraded that to an aftermarket 4x100 RMS Amp that powers the door and rear JBL speakers, so I wanted a small separate amp just to power the small speakers up front. I was currently powering the pair of speakers directly from my head unit, but I wanted to be able to adjust the volume to match my other amps, and more importantly I didn't want my head unit to overheat by pushing 30+ RMS into each channel.In initially hooked it up to my test-bench, with a 13.5V power supply and connected it to my iPhone. I attached two 3.5" JBL 2-ohm car dashboard speakers, rated at 25W RMS each. I initially had the volume turned up all the way, and the gain turned all the way down, and I gradually turned the gain all the way up but it wasn't as loud as I was expecting. Then I realized the volume on my iPhone was only half way up, so when I set that to maximum the speakers were louder then I've ever heard them play in my car. The sound filled the entire house and sounded very clean, except for a slight buzzing sound that I could only hear when the music had a silent pause. I ran it for several hours at full blast, and the Amp only got slightly warm. I suspected the buzzing sound was related to the power supply I was using, so I connected it to my car battery, and the buzzing was gone.and there was no engine noise, so things were looking great. The next step was to wire it to the speaker outputs of my head unit, and to press the input toggle switch to the "speaker input mode". Unfortunately there was no sound output at all in this mode. I verified that my RCA-to-speaker wire patch cord was functional by touching the RCA end to one of the speakers and there indeed was sound, so it was clear that the issue was in the Amp's high-level input mode.As for this being a 400 watt Amp, I assumed that was just marketing hype when I purchased it. I believe it has around 35-40 watts of RMS power per channel, which is fine for small speakers but this would not be enough to push a sub-woofer by any means. I've read that some people needed to use the Peripheral/PAC LD10 Line Driver Signal Booster to boost low level input going into the Amp in order to get louder output.There were two other issues I noticed. The manual said that there is an LED light by the internal controls that should turn on when the Amp is powered on, but I could not see one on my Amp. I also noticed that the potentiometer (dial) on the volume control was not matched well to the unit, as with the gain turned all the way up, the volume control was very sensitive and only responded to the first quarter of a turn, and maxed out beyond that.I considered purchasing a Speaker-Level to Low-Level adapter to work around the speaker input issue, such as the SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter in Black which also includes it's own remote volume control which would solve both issues, but that product should only be needed in cases where you don't want to remove your head unit when adding an amplifier, and I really didn't want to have to add an additional component to the system just to bypass a flaw, so I'm returning the Amp and having a replacement send that hopefully will not have the same issue. If I do encounter the same issue I may upgrade to the slightly larger and more powerful DS18 CANDY-MICRO2 320W 2x80 Watts RMS 2 Channel Full Range Micro Amplifier for Car/Motorcycle/ATV, but that one lacks the external volume control.Update: Two days later I received the advanced replacement unit from Amazon, and this one has working high-level speaker inputs. I noticed that when using the high-level inputs when I turn the volume on my car stereo head unit way up the sound does distort a bit (which does not occur in low-level input mode) but I'm not sure if this is caused by the built-in Line Out Converter (LOC) in the Pyle or if it's caused by the head unit's internal amplification circuitry. I suspect it's the later, so I've ordered a set RCA Audio Piggyback Cable, 2 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male + RCA Female Piggyback, 6 foot which will allow me to share two channels of input signal from my head unit with both this Amp, and my larger Rockford / Fosgate amp which is driving my door speakers. I noticed that the new volume control knob is smoother then the last one, but it reaches maximum volume when its turned half way up. As for the other minor issue of the LED light not coming on the first Pyle-Hydra Amp I ordered, the new replacement doesn't have a power LED either, so apparently this feature was removed.Overall I'm satisfied with my purchase so far. It appers to be designed well, but Pyle needs to improve their quality control and test them better before shipping them to Amazon, as I saw other people had to send their first unit back for replacement as well.

I bought this to drive two external speakers on my boat. The speakers are 200 watt, 4 ohm speakers and this barely does the job. You can hear them but no one would call them loud. I'll keep it until I do a complete overhaul of the stereo system next year.

I put this on my motorcycle. I needed a small footprint but needed more power.For the price and the size I was surprised of the sound boost. I had just a Bluetooth stereo and 2-5 1/2in speakers. The speakers will handle 3oo watts but the stereo only pushed like 40ish watts, and while riding in town I could hear it but the quality was lacking. And on the highway or interstate it was pointless to even turn it on, I relied on Bluetooth ear pods and my cell phone.Any way, i set up the stereo, speakers and the lil Hydra Amp on my work bench to test and see how hot it got.It was a world of difference as far as sound and power, specs say 100 watts for each speaker,With volume up and the gain pretty high it got very warm. The volume control is ok but after turning it a lil over half way up there is no more increase in volume. The instructions say that with the volume knob all the way down it will basically turn the amp off to prevent draining the battery. But since I didn't want another step for tunes i simply used the Blue wire from the Amp to the Blue wire from my stereo and when I turn the stereo off then the Amp also shuts down. I tested and verified this with my multimeter.Decent water resistant caps cover most all the connections.Over all this Amp will not blast like others, but then again it is cheaper and smaller, perfect for my needs.And for like $6 I got extended warranty for 3yrs, to go with the 1yr from Pyle, and after giving a review I will get additional warranty for Pyle.So win win & win, IMHO!I recommend this for motorcycles or ATV's etc... I won't break the bank and It does a good job, now I can jam wherever I ride!

Cool concept, nice small amplifier that you can put anywhere, but lacks everywhere else. Can barely power 2 180w boss speakers. iPhone is probably louder. Don’t waste your time or money.

Worked ok for a month and a half then it just went out not worth buying